Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Day 4 Pre-Ottoman Anatolia and the Gazi Impulse (Safronbolu)


Exploring the role of religious orders in the foundation of the State. 

Thinking of trying the Turkish bath and Hamam today. 

Run with three colleagues this morning. Gorgeous...


View over Safronbolu. 



Alright, today was incredible!!!  I'm not even sure where to start. We started from Safronbolu and drove to a village called Yurukuru where there are some Ottoman style homes, the oldest of which was over 400 years old. These people were the best bakers in Turkey. In fact, many bakers that have been renowned in Istanbul have roots back to this village. 

The Ottomans had important Jannissaries (military men) who made money and would come out to the country from Istanbul for part of the year. They became associated with a Sufi Bektashi group of Islam. It is quite complicated to go into, and I don't want to cause you to never come back to my blog, but these people's homes are full of symbolism that comes from both Islam and Christianity. The Ottomans were tolerant of religious diversity, much moreso than in Turkey since the empire ended. Needless to say, much symbolism regarding certain numbers and religious beliefs is portrayed in these old homes. We went in one of them, and it was fascinating.  I was told by our tour guide that of the over 5,000 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Turkey, about 1,500 are from Safronbolu and it surrounding areas. 


This is the oldest home in Yurukuru. It is over 400 years old!
These notches are the mark of the builder, like a signature. 
The wash room, as this area was irrigated and not close to a stream or river. There is much religious symbolism even here, like 12 sides to the washing stone. 


Turkish tea time.  
Saffron bulbs:  What Safronbolu is partially renowned for
A charming lunch spot in an old shopping/trading area. 
Along the market area of Safronbolu. P
This was really fascinating to see this example of an old countryside extended family Ottoman house. 
The harem area of the house. These women had much more power than they are stereotypically given credit for. 
My one photo from the Turkish bath. The bath was so peaceful. Beautiful marble walls and arches. So pampered. Skin so soft. Ahhhh!  :-)
Met an accomplished metallurgist (center) with a colleague. This man had three shops, was impressed with the few Turkish phrases I could stammer out, and talked me in to two pieces. Great experience in Safronbolu shopping. Happy to give my money here before going to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. 
Some of his craftsmanship  

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