July 25 Beautiful Bukhara, Intellectual Mecca

7/25

We drove to the ancient city of Bukhara, one of the most famous destinations on the Ancient Silk Road and Uzbekistan’s third-largest city (at around 300,000 people). During the 9th and 10th centuries, Bukhara was the intellectual center of the Islamic world with numerous mosques and madrassas. Much of the old city has been restored, and it is a shopping paradise with cafés and markets. People all over Bukhara to stroll in the evening and eat around the Lyab-i Hauz, a delightful pool of water surrounded by ancient mulberry trees and a commercial center for the modern city. 

My hotel courtyard in the heart of the old city. 

These three daring ladies and I went to a traditional hamman in the old city. These are bath houses where you get naked (they are traditionally not cow-ed, as this one is also not) and get scrubbed down by a woman and then get a mask of oils. They are all a little different though, and this one was special because it was in a 500 year-old bath house. 

Nasraddin Hoja is a character across the Islamic world who gives advice and wisdom, or tells jokes, and travels on a donkey. Sometimes he is also a bit confused, but in the end makes statements about the irony of situations. I learned about him in Turkey years ago, and it was fun to see that he is also revered in Central Asia. 


This is the pond area described above. We ate dinner next to it. 

Bukhara was also once home to a large community of Jews, most of whom emigrated to Israel and the west after the breakup of the Soviet Union. A small number, however, remained, as do a handful of synagogues, one of which is located just down a small alley from Lyab-i Hauz.

In the synagogue. We talked with a leader of it who runs it now, though it has not had a rabbi for several years. Dignitaries such as Hillary Clinton have been here, and it is known for its centuries-long cooperative relationship with Muslims in the region. Also, the cemetery for Jews has never been desecrated here. Bukhara is a great example of a place that has been religiously tolerant. 

The two Torahs above are each over 1000 years old. They are kept behind this locked cabinet and curtains are pulled over them, but they are taken out and used. It is quite something. 

Bukhara  is also called the Navoi region. (Named after poet born in Herat, Afghanistan). He famously said that in one hand he held the Qur’an and in the other, a glass of wine, suggesting that he such much beauty in different cultures and beliefs. 

There were three khanates in this region, the Khanate of Kiva and Khanate of Bukhara and one in Kokand (Fergana Valley). 

Russian emperors were interested in Central Asia stating with Peter the Great. He heard of gold being found. He sent some emissaries in the guise of merchants to find out about the military condition of the regions. 

Some military were sent also, but many died in the hot deserts. 

Russians and British both vied for interest in Central Asia. Competition was heavy. Sent ambassadors and envoys. An agreement between the two after a time, the Russians got influence of Central Asia and the British over India, with Afghanistan as a buffer zone. 

When Russians took over in Bukhara, one good thing they did was outlaw slavery in the region. 

Photos below are from our evening orientation walk. A lot more on Bukhara will be posted on the next day’s post. 

Another unorthodox example of creatures on and Islamic building. This was once a famous madrassa but is now used for shopping. The next night we would go to a fashion show/dinner in the courtyard in here. Below is a closeup of the imaginary bird (not a phoenix but something like it). 

These old madrassas and mosques that are now shopping areas had lovely people like this expert suzani (needlework version here that using a chain stitch). She showed me the ways the material and thread is dyed from natural plants and things like walnut shells. Her shop was an old mosque.  It has a dome and you could hear the standard echo for the teaching of the imams or the reciting of prayers. 

Next door remain Soviet propaganda for the growing of cotton importance. 

More photos from the old buildings, and the icon old man figures holding bread, tea or musical instrument. These are everywhere in Uzbekistan. 

Near the Jewish neighborhood 

This is an old Jewish home with Islamic architecture, which is now a nice restaurant. 

The doors and woodwork here are striking. 

July 24 Alexander the Great’s Fortress and a Desert Yurt Camp

7/24

We embarked for Nurota where we visited the remains of a military fortress of Alexander the Great and Holy Chashma (Spring) of Nurota. Also known as Naruta or Nur, as it was once called, Nurota was founded by Alexander the Great in 327 BCE. We visited the ruins of Alexander’s military fortress and the Chasma Spring, which today is a popular pilgrimage destination. It is believed to have been discovered by a local farmer who had a vision of Imam Ali, the fourth khalifa and the Prophet Muhammad’s son-in- law, striking a rock and causing water to flow. The waters of the spring are believed to have healing powers. 

The spring has fish that are not eaten because bad things have happened and they are believed to be poisonous. 

Nurota means created from light. A legend says that a spring was created from a meteor. 

 

There is a mosque at the foot of the fortress with a large dome and a mosque with many pillars to symbolize the number 40, which is important symbolically. The dome at the base of the fortress is for a saint of Nurota. 

This is not the highest point of the remaining fortress, which now is really just a hill. These stones are probably not part of it, even, but some has been excavated. I climbed with Erkin to the top and was rewarded with a fabulous view and cooler air and breeze than the area below, but the day was still scorching. 

We then ventured to the nearby Aidarkul Lake, and Melanie and I opted for a swim. This is a reservoir created in 1970, and the water was quite warm and pleasant to swim in. There was no way I was sitting in shade for an hour in 100 plus degree heat. 

Across the lake is Kazakhstan. 

We continued on for an overnight stay in a local yurt camp called Sputnik Navoi. Yes, it is named after the satellite. It was nice to shower off, and there were good facilities to do so. 

We enjoyed an authentic Uzbekistan dinner and an evening Kazakh singing show.  I was asked to dance by a driver for some other yurt campers and our own driver because I was participating in dancing by the fire. Vina and I really enjoyed the music and dancing and counted it as a highlight of the trip, despite the very hot day leading up to it. Some rode camels, but I have done that and elected not to in the extreme heat. 

The photo above is with the sunrise the next morning, as are the ones below. I saw an owl. The photo is grainy because I had to zoom in far with my phone. 

July 23 Samarkand, Famous Crossroad of the Silk Road

7/23

This morning, we took a tour of the city, including a visit to the Registan, Samarkand’s most famous monument complex. It is a public square surrounded by three historic madrassas or schools (all now souvenir and craft shops). Sons of wealthy families from all over Central Asia attended the madrassas, and their training could last 10 to 20 years. Registan means “place of sand,” a reference to the square itself, which traditionally was a marketplace. Now it’s a stage used for musical performances during the summer, especially at night, like the photos I posted from the day before. 

The oldest part (a madrassa) was built in 1420, then right side and middle two hundred years later in 1636 and in 1660 the middle complex. 

The territory conquered by Timur (Tamerlane is often the name used by the West) was huge. His Grandson Uleg Beg was born 1394 and helped build oldest part of the Registan. He was interested in knowledge, enlightenment, books and intellectualism. In 1420 he built the madrassa to support mathematics, astronomy and geography. He actually built three madrassas, while none come from Tamerlane. 

Uleg Beg (Bek) asked many scholars to come and began the second renaissance of Central Asia and promoted gender equality when it came to knowledge. The madrassa he built has over 8 kilos of gold that have leafed the inside. 

Needless to say, he was not liked by fanatic clergy who saw him was too liberal with his research and that money was going to scientific exploration. 

 

An assassin killed him who was hired  by his own son. Beg was only 55. After his death, the academy dispersed. The son on it had power for about 6 months and was beheaded. The head was put on display here at his father’s madrassa. 

There are literally tons of gold leafing in this section of the Registan, which is the building of the dome above. 

The dome. Striking. 

Today these madrassas have been converted into shops. 

Melanie the photographer took these of me from her cell around the corner. 

It is unorthodox to have depictions of animals and humans on mosques, and usually on madrassas, but this madrassa is an exception. The human face is symbolic of a teacher and the tiger, the student. This relationship is to shine light on the region and make it better. 

We also saw the  Shaki Zinda Necropolis complex. This was partly for a person who met the prophet  Muhammad, was his cousin, and saw his burial. He came to this region to convert people to Islam. There are different tombs here for important burials, including Timur’s  sister and daughter. 

I believe this was the entrance to the daughter’s tomb. 

The one above and below are Timur’s sister’s tomb. 

The tile work across the Islamic world is simply marvelous. 

Bibi Khanym Mosque 

“If you question our greatness, look at our buildings” is inscribed on portal. (Tamerlane). This mosque was built for his wife. She actually employed the workers and also had elephants. According to legend, when Bibi Khanym was here overseeing, she called in the head engineer to hasten the building so it could be as completed as possible for when Timur came back. The engineer asked for a wish, which was a kiss and offered a concubine. He responded by saying that she was like white wine, not water. She decided to kiss him but pulled him away, and left a scratch on her face. Tamer was upset and banished her but with one person. She took him with him in a drunken stupor. He was flattered. 

Large Qur’an holder in the courtyard. A Qur’an is considered sacred and should never touch the ground. 

This was the biggest mosque of Samarkand at that time. Today it is a non functioning mosque, but it was a major project.  

A near place that we went to was the observatory of the Islamic Golden Age astronomer 

He created a giant measuring device to calculate the calendar and got a year within less that two minutes of accuracy in the 11th century. This was fascinating. The observatory was not even found until the early 20th century. 

He was considered among the great scientists by Europeans also. 

Erkin took Beth and I to the Gur-e Amir, the tomb of Amir Timur during our free time. Timur lived between 1336-1405 and was the founder of the Timurid dynasty. He was the grandfather of Ulugh Beg and great-great-great-grandfather of Babur Beg, who went on to found the Mughal Empire that ruled South Asia for four centuries. During his lifetime, Timur was one of the most powerful rulers in the Muslim world, and his armies were feared throughout Asia, Africa, and Europe. The mausoleum was actually built for Timur’s grandson and heir apparent, Muhammad Sultan, who died before him. Timur had requested to be buried in his hometown of Shahrisabz, about 50 km away. He died during the very cold and snowy winter of 1406, and because the roads were not passable, he was buried here instead. An unfinished mausoleum still exists in Shahrisabz.

Timur was buried below the darkest sarcophagus. This mausoleum was astounding and we had it almost to ourselves. During the high season now (spring break and fall) there are lines and barely any standing room, according to Erkin. 

Samarkand excelled in beauty compared to all cities at the height of Timur’s reign, which is why he has become such a significant figure. 

In the afternoon we had free time to explore and shop. Samarkand was incredible, and I am thrilled I finally got to see it.