We began with a lecture by Cigdem Kafescioglu of Bogazici University (Turkey's Harvard) She is an art historian and helped us understand the visual vocabulary of the Ottomans, especially in creating a sort of visual identity of the empire. She had some great slides snd helped me understand the borrower verses original and also how the central authority of such an empire could create such massive edifices in short time (less than 10 years for the giant mosques) while cathedrals in Europe could take more than a lifetime.
We then went on a visit to the sultans' Topkapi Palace. This place was beyond words and overwhelming. Photography was not allowed in some of the museums, but it was fabulous to see. The wealth and power of the central authority was incredible.
Topkapi is secured geographically on a hill by the Bosphorus and Golden Horn. It is in a series of three sections, starting with the public courtyard, to the area of visiting and consultation by invitation and then the private quarters of the sultan, the harem and children with their staff.
18th century fountain outside Topkapi.
Fountains were an important endowment of that time. Poetry (which I described the importance of in an earlier blog) is inscribed on the little cartouche-looking pieces.
Armed guards at the outside gate entrance.
This was originally a cathedral that pre-dates the Hagia Sofia. The sultans built the courtyard around it.
Walking to the next gated section.
Entrance to this section. Each sultan had a stylized version of his name created, called a tugrhah. You see them everywhere here.
Model of the entire inner complex.
The Cyprus tree represents the woman, slender and twisting in the breeze. These just happen to be by the harem, but they are everywhere.
Roses now, but in the spring I would love to see the Ottoman tulips.
The hall of justice where important legal and political decisions occurred and courts were met.
Dinner at a famous place in Asia after a ferry ride across the Bosphorus. Fun.
Armory. No photos allowed in here, but it was a terrific display of Ottoman arms across the centuries. All types, ceremonial and otherwise. Incredible artistry and craftsmanship.
Entrance to sultan's private seating area. Only those close to him would be invited here.
The sofas (and ottomans :-) of this area were embroidered with real gold thread.
These next slides are of the harem of the sultan. There are many many misconceptions and myths about these in western culture. These were powerful women, especially the mother of the Sultan or prince chosen as successor.
Is this a "welcome to our harem" gesture?
Where all the pots and pans from the kitchen would be brought.
One of the harem courtyards that led to individual areas.
The queen mother's courtyard. These next few are of her space. Opulent is an understatement.
Not really liking the placement of the fire extinguisher.
Remember when I went to Iznik? There are thousands upon thousands of the finest of these at the palace. It is beyond description.
The Sultan's private chambers
Dinner was in Asia! We hopped on the ferry, rode across the Bosphorus and ate at the best restaurant in Istanbul as voted by the people last year. It was traditional Turkish food, high quality, fresh ingredients, and amazing! We all felt like we had eaten Thanksgiving dinner afterward, but it was worth it. :-)
Starters of a yogurt and barley dip, a thyme salad, spicy roasted peppers and tomatoes, hummus.
The bread comes fresh from the oven all puffed up like this and then settles to a flat bread for dipping.
A dumpling filled with meat.
I must have been relishing in the main dishes too much to take photos of, but they were family style bowls of tomato, eggplant and pepper stew with lamb, okra with lamb or beef, and one other one. Then above are pickled and sweetened things that sound so unusual but are super yummy. I may never taste anything like them again in my life. Pickled black walnut, citrus, fig, pumpkin, and olives.
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