Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Day 16 Ottoman Social Institutions and Urban Culture

Started the morning in the classroom again with an interesting lecture by Dana and the use and importance of public space in the empire. We talked about the courts, markets, fountains, hamams, and coffee houses and what we can learn from them to discover the social history of the Ottomans. We also had the presentation of the Daily Life Group.

This was followed by a long walk looking at architecture in Istanbul and a lot of signage and words to help understand the social, economic and artistic fabric of the city. 

Our walk began with a look at the changing architecture.  Here is a 19th century building, now a school.  You can see the European influence.
Same school
Another 19th century building.  This one has the Ottoman coat of arms.  It is now a language academy or something like that.

We learned that if you see the funny C, (which says ch), with an i, it means maker of something.  In this case, it is the maker of paper products.
This is the entrance to a han.  Hans or caravanseries, were mercantile places like bazaars with separate shops.  These allowed people traveling also a place to stay.  
This was the Iranian consulate.
Iranian consulate
More Ataturk craziness.  If you have not check him out, do so.  He is a hero here.
Another han
See the ci?  Now, if you put oglu after it, it means "son of" the maker of something.  Helva is a sweet treat.  Can you figure this out?
More interesting architecture.  This one has the rounded protruding windows.  Again, more European influence.
Han
This is not my favorite, in fact if you are German, don't be offended.  This was created by a German architect, and is simply not appealing.
I could not help but shoot this shot by the hideous German building.  This is advertising clothing for a boy's circumcision, a huge affair, which brings him to manhood.  I believe I wrote about this before.  Boys are very spoiled during this event, getting gifts from many friends and family at a big party.
See the German writing?
Ottoman writing, and possibly Armenian?  I cannot remember.
This was the tomb of one of the sultan's wives.  She was a Russian slave originally, but got some "fancy digs" for a tomb, in the words of professor Barb.

We had tea at a marvelous sweet shop.  Wow!  We shared some divine treats.
Tulips are everywhere.
We then got entrance through the gate at Istanbul University, where we were able to walk up the Byzantine walls and get a magnificent view of Sulimanye Mosque, which we visited the other day.

Again, this is part of the mosque complex.  These shops supported the mosque.  There was a hospital, soup kitchen, and there still are the adjacent madrasas for religious schooling.
I so wish I had purchased an Ataturk flag.
This is the closest thing there still is to an Ottoman coffee house.  This serves a slightly alcoholic yogurt drink called boza, which is quite popular.
Ataturk's photo in the boza shop.
Doesn't he have the greatest smile?  I found Turks to be the most delightful, fun people.  They love to laugh at themselves and joke around.  He is giving us a good demonstration.
This was a tea cup Ataturk drank from, which is mounted in the boza shop.  What did I tell you?
We walked past the Valens aqueducts. These were completed by the Roman emperor Valens in the 4th Century, A.D.!  I loved these.

This was followed by the group presentations of the Gender Group and the Military Group.  But the very best part of the day was our long Cooking A la Turka class!  Fantastic!  Fun! Will be forever memorialized in my brain.  Fifteen of us elected to take this class where we all were schooled in some basic Turkish cuisine.  We made the most delcious meal and then ate it!  Have I put in enough exclamation marks?  Can you say unctious?  Wow!  Those who know me know my love of cooking and great food.  This was the most fun I've ever had in the kitchen with a group of people who have become such great friends over the last 2 1/2 weeks.  

Will explain the pics later, plus adding more from others who were there. I opted not to bring my big camera and be worrying about it. 
How does that garlic smell, Susan?
I hope Brent likes tomatoes. 
Cutting garlic. 
Though we did use a lot of olive oil, it was not the whole can. :-)
These stuffed baby eggplant boats are called "The Imam Fainted," possibly because they were so good or also because he was shocked at how much good olive oil his wife used.
Preparing the figs for their spiced syrup bath.
I was massaging the herbs into the beef and lamb mixture for the stuffed grape leaves. 
Brian and I were attempting to show our awe at how amazing the stuffed grape leaves are smelling. I don't believe I got the correct expression. :-)
The bathing figs.
The dolmas (stuffed grape leaves) are under these plates to keep them weighted down and together. There is a science to every step of this process.
The spicy lentil soup, the best we had. 
This was my favorite. I almost fainted too. 

The figs tasted like a bite of Christmas in July. 
Mint tea?  Yes, please. 

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