Saturday, July 20, 2013

Day 13 Vakif, Ulema, Sufis and the Urban Fabric

We had the first group presentation today. We were divided into specialty groups according to our interests before we came and were assigned specific readings. The religion group presented this morning, as our lecture was also about religion. 

Dana then presented on the Vakif system. She is such a great professor. She is originally from Syria and adds so much to our group learning, in addition to being one of the nicest people. The Vakif was the system used by the Ottoman sultan because  after the disappearance of the Caliphate, there was no more direct religious authority. The Vakif (or wafq in Arabic) was an endowment system in which the sultanate could create legitimacy for their empire by supporting religion. Thus, the madrasas (religious schools, hospitals, mosques, etc) all to support Islam and keep them as the locus of authority. 
The Religion Group presenting. Terrence, Ron, Katie and Lawren (not pictured). 
After the morning session we walked to the Sulimanye Mosque, again designed by Sinan, but not considered by him to be as great an achievement as the Selimye, which we saw in Edirne.  On the way, we stopped at the booksellers market.  This is right off the Grand Bazaar, and books have been sold here for centuries.  Barb, one of our professors, said that once she came and saw the Quran with Fifty Shades of Gray right next to it.  Talk about extremes.  
Not a minaret but the fire tower.  Those old Ottoman houses were wooden, and there used to be many more trees.  Fires could be devastating.
More pics of the streets of Istanbul.
The Mecca of Evil Eyes.  These are meant to protect you from those who mean to hurt you because of their jealousy or covetousness.  The belief is centuries old in many regions in this part of the world, but these things are everywhere.
Outside the Sulimanye, near the masoleum.  Suliman the Magnificent is buried here.
I am not really a pet photographer, but I sort of liked the pensive feel of this cat, looking in on the gardens and madrasas of the imperial mosque.
Entrance to Istanbul University, one of the oldest universities in this region.
Evidence of the vakif.  These shops supported the mosque and also were a connection to the people of the empire.  Every major mosque, it seems, has these by it.
These next photos are of the cemetery around Sulimanye.  The most interesting headstones are of the Janisseries (military), and there is a big cemetery with many of them in Edirne, the capital before Istanbul (Constantinople).  These are still very interesting headstones.  
I like the one with the turban.
Where the men perform their ablutions before entering the mosque.  Women have a covered area or wash before leaving their homes.
The courtyard of Sulimanye.  
Inside Sulimanye.
This dome is more in the European style.  I do love the colors.
There are 10 balconies in Sulimanye, as symbollic of him as the 10th sultan.
I think we all have weary legs from all of the walking.  :-)
A corner outside the mosque has a beautiful view of the Bosphorus.  
From our lunch spot above the spice market. Great little place to eat. 
You know this cook spent time in the spice market. I spent enough that I received a very unique item, which again should not be spoken of in such a public forum. I was blushing, but it will make for a fun white elephant gift. 
This little mosque next to the spice market has some stunning Iznik tile work. Gorgeous 
A tile showing the hajj to the Kaaba in Mecca. 
Tiles in the courtyard. Amazing how beautiful the tiles are even after centuries. 
Finally, our long day ended with a performance of the Whirling Dervishes, which come from a Sufi tradition of Islam. You could not photograph the performance, but you will see my talented roommate Stacey's sketches of them. 

Behind the giant sign, the chanters and instrumentalists played. They chanted Quranic verses while the music played. Thank heavens it was before dinner and not after, because it is intended to induce a meditative state. This performance even occurred in a centuries-old bath house. 
Stacey's journal/sketch book. You can see the musicians and then the dervishes. They tilt there head to one side to listen to Allah, have the right hand open to receive Allah's word and the left hand down to spread the message and to offer good will and assistance to others. They whirl in their own perfect circle synchronously with the other five and then also while they are turning in a larger circle. These represent the eternal circle and human circle if I remember correctly, but I need to go look this up to remember. What a fascinating experience. 

1 comment:

  1. Sorry, I do not quite get vakif system. I assume it is not our separation of church and state; they are one under rule of Ottoman Empire?

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