Stauffer's Global Gallivants: July 25 Beautiful Bukhara, Intellectual Mecca

7/25

We drove to the ancient city of Bukhara, one of the most famous destinations on the Ancient Silk Road and Uzbekistan’s third-largest city (at around 300,000 people). During the 9th and 10th centuries, Bukhara was the intellectual center of the Islamic world with numerous mosques and madrassas. Much of the old city has been restored, and it is a shopping paradise with cafés and markets. People all over Bukhara to stroll in the evening and eat around the Lyab-i Hauz, a delightful pool of water surrounded by ancient mulberry trees and a commercial center for the modern city.

My hotel courtyard in the heart of the old city.

These three daring ladies and I went to a traditional hamman in the old city. These are bath houses where you get naked (they are traditionally not cow-ed, as this one is also not) and get scrubbed down by a woman and then get a mask of oils. They are all a little different though, and this one was special because it was in a 500 year-old bath house.

Nasraddin Hoja is a character across the Islamic world who gives advice and wisdom, or tells jokes, and travels on a donkey. Sometimes he is also a bit confused, but in the end makes statements about the irony of situations. I learned about him in Turkey years ago, and it was fun to see that he is also revered in Central Asia.

This is the pond area described above. We ate dinner next to it.

Bukhara was also once home to a large community of Jews, most of whom emigrated to Israel and the west after the breakup of the Soviet Union. A small number, however, remained, as do a handful of synagogues, one of which is located just down a small alley from Lyab-i Hauz.

In the synagogue. We talked with a leader of it who runs it now, though it has not had a rabbi for several years. Dignitaries such as Hillary Clinton have been here, and it is known for its centuries-long cooperative relationship with Muslims in the region. Also, the cemetery for Jews has never been desecrated here. Bukhara is a great example of a place that has been religiously tolerant.

The two Torahs above are each over 1000 years old. They are kept behind this locked cabinet and curtains are pulled over them, but they are taken out and used. It is quite something.

Bukhara is also called the Navoi region. (Named after poet born in Herat, Afghanistan). He famously said that in one hand he held the Qur’an and in the other, a glass of wine, suggesting that he such much beauty in different cultures and beliefs.

There were three khanates in this region, the Khanate of Kiva and Khanate of Bukhara and one in Kokand (Fergana Valley).

Russian emperors were interested in Central Asia stating with Peter the Great. He heard of gold being found. He sent some emissaries in the guise of merchants to find out about the military condition of the regions.

Some military were sent also, but many died in the hot deserts.

Russians and British both vied for interest in Central Asia. Competition was heavy. Sent ambassadors and envoys. An agreement between the two after a time, the Russians got influence of Central Asia and the British over India, with Afghanistan as a buffer zone.

When Russians took over in Bukhara, one good thing they did was outlaw slavery in the region.

Photos below are from our evening orientation walk. A lot more on Bukhara will be posted on the next day’s post.

Another unorthodox example of creatures on and Islamic building. This was once a famous madrassa but is now used for shopping. The next night we would go to a fashion show/dinner in the courtyard in here. Below is a closeup of the imaginary bird (not a phoenix but something like it).

These old madrassas and mosques that are now shopping areas had lovely people like this expert suzani (needlework version here that using a chain stitch). She showed me the ways the material and thread is dyed from natural plants and things like walnut shells. Her shop was an old mosque. It has a dome and you could hear the standard echo for the teaching of the imams or the reciting of prayers.