Stauffer's Global Gallivants: July 23 Samarkand, Famous Crossroad of the Silk Road

7/23

This morning, we took a tour of the city, including a visit to the Registan, Samarkand’s most famous monument complex. It is a public square surrounded by three historic madrassas or schools (all now souvenir and craft shops). Sons of wealthy families from all over Central Asia attended the madrassas, and their training could last 10 to 20 years. Registan means “place of sand,” a reference to the square itself, which traditionally was a marketplace. Now it’s a stage used for musical performances during the summer, especially at night, like the photos I posted from the day before.

The oldest part (a madrassa) was built in 1420, then right side and middle two hundred years later in 1636 and in 1660 the middle complex.

The territory conquered by Timur (Tamerlane is often the name used by the West) was huge. His Grandson Uleg Beg was born 1394 and helped build oldest part of the Registan. He was interested in knowledge, enlightenment, books and intellectualism. In 1420 he built the madrassa to support mathematics, astronomy and geography. He actually built three madrassas, while none come from Tamerlane.

Uleg Beg (Bek) asked many scholars to come and began the second renaissance of Central Asia and promoted gender equality when it came to knowledge. The madrassa he built has over 8 kilos of gold that have leafed the inside.

Needless to say, he was not liked by fanatic clergy who saw him was too liberal with his research and that money was going to scientific exploration.

An assassin killed him who was hired by his own son. Beg was only 55. After his death, the academy dispersed. The son on it had power for about 6 months and was beheaded. The head was put on display here at his father’s madrassa.

There are literally tons of gold leafing in this section of the Registan, which is the building of the dome above.

The dome. Striking.

Today these madrassas have been converted into shops.

Melanie the photographer took these of me from her cell around the corner.

It is unorthodox to have depictions of animals and humans on mosques, and usually on madrassas, but this madrassa is an exception. The human face is symbolic of a teacher and the tiger, the student. This relationship is to shine light on the region and make it better.

We also saw the Shaki Zinda Necropolis complex. This was partly for a person who met the prophet Muhammad, was his cousin, and saw his burial. He came to this region to convert people to Islam. There are different tombs here for important burials, including Timur’s sister and daughter.

I believe this was the entrance to the daughter’s tomb.

The one above and below are Timur’s sister’s tomb.

The tile work across the Islamic world is simply marvelous.

Bibi Khanym Mosque

“If you question our greatness, look at our buildings” is inscribed on portal. (Tamerlane). This mosque was built for his wife. She actually employed the workers and also had elephants. According to legend, when Bibi Khanym was here overseeing, she called in the head engineer to hasten the building so it could be as completed as possible for when Timur came back. The engineer asked for a wish, which was a kiss and offered a concubine. He responded by saying that she was like white wine, not water. She decided to kiss him but pulled him away, and left a scratch on her face. Tamer was upset and banished her but with one person. She took him with him in a drunken stupor. He was flattered.

Large Qur’an holder in the courtyard. A Qur’an is considered sacred and should never touch the ground.

This was the biggest mosque of Samarkand at that time. Today it is a non functioning mosque, but it was a major project.

A near place that we went to was the observatory of the Islamic Golden Age astronomer

He created a giant measuring device to calculate the calendar and got a year within less that two minutes of accuracy in the 11th century. This was fascinating. The observatory was not even found until the early 20th century.

He was considered among the great scientists by Europeans also.

Erkin took Beth and I to the Gur-e Amir, the tomb of Amir Timur during our free time. Timur lived between 1336-1405 and was the founder of the Timurid dynasty. He was the grandfather of Ulugh Beg and great-great-great-grandfather of Babur Beg, who went on to found the Mughal Empire that ruled South Asia for four centuries. During his lifetime, Timur was one of the most powerful rulers in the Muslim world, and his armies were feared throughout Asia, Africa, and Europe. The mausoleum was actually built for Timur’s grandson and heir apparent, Muhammad Sultan, who died before him. Timur had requested to be buried in his hometown of Shahrisabz, about 50 km away. He died during the very cold and snowy winter of 1406, and because the roads were not passable, he was buried here instead. An unfinished mausoleum still exists in Shahrisabz.

Timur was buried below the darkest sarcophagus. This mausoleum was astounding and we had it almost to ourselves. During the high season now (spring break and fall) there are lines and barely any standing room, according to Erkin.