Day 6 The Conquest Moment: The Architectural Signature of the Early Ottomans

Bursa

Bursa is on the Silk Road. We started our day in the classroom, which is typical when we are already in the city we are touring. We discussed themes of the day and of much of Ottoman culture in general. 

These 4 Themes are: 1. Layers of History 2. Religious Diversity 3. Heterodoxy v Orthodoxy 4. Central Authority v Local Power

First, did I pick the right group, or what?  Four men and me?  You decide. :-)

We then went on a drive up on the mountainside of Bursa, a very large city, where most of the older sites are. The following are photos from the sites, such as the Green Mosque, the Silk Bazaar, etc. 

Ulicami Mosque built in 1399. It pre-dates when the Hagia Sofia was taken over by Islam, so there is no dome (a defining characteristic of Turkish mosques). It has remarkable example of Arabic calligraphy inside, and though it has a separate area for women during noon prayers, at other open times women and men can pray in the same area, an unusual thing about Bursa. 

The inner fountain is also unusual.  

My attempt at a panoramic shot. 

This is the direction of Mecca. The pulpit on the right is made of walnut and is all put together with wood, no screws or nails. It is incredibly beautiful. With my other camera I have a close-up shot of the woodwork. It has symbols of the sun, moon and stars. 

I never posted a pic with my wonderful roommate Stacey from Florida. She is a kindred spirit. 

The Koza Han, the trading market for silk in Bursa, built in 1491. Inside are dozens of shops selling fine silk scarves and other textiles. Will post more photos of the inside later. 

For those who wanted more pics of locals. 

Next we went to the Green Mosque. There are several mosques called this, but this is the most famous, due to the exceptional green and blue tiles. Somehow, I unintentionally dressed to coordinate with the mosque today. 

Women are asked to cover for entering the mosques. 

There is much symbolism in the writing and in the plant symbolism. This is all hundreds of years old and goes around the entrance to the mosque. 

Note the hexagon or beehive shape. This and squares and triangles are all tessellating shapes, which are godly because they can be extended together infinitely. 

 

The same symbolism we saw a couple of days ago in the houses in Yurukuru and Safronbolu. The number 12 and the hat-like shapes are everywhere. Again, the connections to various religions and even varieties within Islam. 

 

The group gathering outside the Green Tomb. I have to go back to notes and come back to report on who is buried here. 

Lunch at Hunkar. This was traditional kabob sliced meat over bread with yogurt. It was scrumptious. 

More shopping in Bursa. We found some great items in a multi-tiered store that sold everything from the tackiest souvenirs to beautiful quality linens. 

A highlight of the day was watching a traditional shadow puppet show. This was a dying art that has been resurrected over the last couple of decades. This tradition has been around in this part of the world and Indonesia for centuries. The themes include making fun of authorities and usually have a political bent. Though the show was in Turkish, we could understand much of it, and the puppet master threw in some English for our sakes. It was fun to hear the kids laugh. I loved seeing this art form and can see why it has been so popular through the centuries. 

These are made from stretched and scraped animal skins, which are then dyed. The parts move. 

Back-stage pass after enabled us to see how this was a one-man show. He makes the puppets, and does the movement and voices. I was impressed!  What fun!

Osman I tomb. He is the reason we are here, I guess you could say. :-). Is an was not the greatest Sultan but was the founder of what became the Ottoman Empire. I find the hats with the scarves a little strange. Turks do entertaining things. The Turkish flag also cracks me up since the empire really encompassed so much. 

Orhan Gazi tomb (Osman's son)

These tiles date back to Byzantine times. 

Centuries old Ottoman wall. 

Street in Bursa

Dinner tonight felt oddly wedding or bar mitzva-ish. When it got dark there were these strobing obnoxious neon lights. We were entertained by our fearless leader Barbara telling us funny Riverdance stories. My table was the best. 

View over Bursa at dusk. 

And finally, for my few friends (you know who you are) who told me not to snatch up a Turkish boyfriend, these are for you. A few of us girls had fun with these guys today. I especially like the mannequin with the turquoise pants and Ataturk shirt. Look up Ataturk on Wikipedia. He is a hero here, and the current Prime Minister, Erdogan, does not like him. He died long ago and is really the one responsible for the modern, more secular Turkish state. We have a game in our group called Ataturk Bingo, which I think is really more like I Spy Ataturk. 

Day 5 Layers of History: From Roman and Byzantine to Ottoman Times

Thrilled about today. Dressing conservatively for our first mosque visit as a group. Bus travel again today--Iznik and then Bursa. 

Went to the Iznik tile factory and research center where historic Ottoman and Islamic tiles are produced to match the authentic production methods. These tiles are hand painted and have quartz in the clay and glazing, which makes them very hard, beautiful and expensive. View for yourself and see what you think. In Islam people and animal images are not used. Flowers and geometric patterns are what you see. The tulip with pointy petals is all over, as it is a symbol of a period in the Ottoman Empire. They are grown here and blossom everywhere in the spring. I am going to purchase some bulbs when I get home. 

The Sans Sofia church. It is thought that the Ecumenical Counsel may have been here. This is in the area of Nicea. 

These frescoes were not erased by the Muslims. You can barely see them. They are hundreds of years old. 

This wall was started in the first century, ce. It is so amazing to see the layers of history. 

Rather than a Bible in the drawer, there is a sticker pointing to the direction of Mecca. 

Day 4 Pre-Ottoman Anatolia and the Gazi Impulse (Safronbolu)

Exploring the role of religious orders in the foundation of the State. 

Thinking of trying the Turkish bath and Hamam today. 

Run with three colleagues this morning. Gorgeous...

View over Safronbolu. 

Alright, today was incredible!!!  I'm not even sure where to start. We started from Safronbolu and drove to a village called Yurukuru where there are some Ottoman style homes, the oldest of which was over 400 years old. These people were the best bakers in Turkey. In fact, many bakers that have been renowned in Istanbul have roots back to this village. 

The Ottomans had important Jannissaries (military men) who made money and would come out to the country from Istanbul for part of the year. They became associated with a Sufi Bektashi group of Islam. It is quite complicated to go into, and I don't want to cause you to never come back to my blog, but these people's homes are full of symbolism that comes from both Islam and Christianity. The Ottomans were tolerant of religious diversity, much moreso than in Turkey since the empire ended. Needless to say, much symbolism regarding certain numbers and religious beliefs is portrayed in these old homes. We went in one of them, and it was fascinating.  I was told by our tour guide that of the over 5,000 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Turkey, about 1,500 are from Safronbolu and it surrounding areas. 

This is the oldest home in Yurukuru. It is over 400 years old!

These notches are the mark of the builder, like a signature. 

The wash room, as this area was irrigated and not close to a stream or river. There is much religious symbolism even here, like 12 sides to the washing stone. 

Turkish tea time.  

Saffron bulbs:  What Safronbolu is partially renowned for

A charming lunch spot in an old shopping/trading area. 

Along the market area of Safronbolu. P

This was really fascinating to see this example of an old countryside extended family Ottoman house. 

The harem area of the house. These women had much more power than they are stereotypically given credit for. 

My one photo from the Turkish bath. The bath was so peaceful. Beautiful marble walls and arches. So pampered. Skin so soft. Ahhhh!  :-)

Met an accomplished metallurgist (center) with a colleague. This man had three shops, was impressed with the few Turkish phrases I could stammer out, and talked me in to two pieces. Great experience in Safronbolu shopping. Happy to give my money here before going to the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. 

Some of his craftsmanship